By Ingrid Keneally
Vanessa Barragão is a Portugal-based fiber and textile artist inspired by the environment, whose practice combines weaving and innovative stitch methods to find ways of raising the surface, creating texture and incorporating a sculptural context into the work. Her vivid constructions evoke vigorous oceanic and earth landscapes and bring coral, pebble, and stone-like shapes into three-dimensional form. Vanessa’s route towards becoming a textile artist began after completing a fashion design degree, which led to further study and her gaining her masters. Through her research, Vanessa explored textiles and their crafting methods and created a collection of handmade ecological yarns from Portuguese wool. This later became assemblage for a book entitled La Artsenal: from the sheep to the thread.
How would you describe your method for working with wool?
In order to make my tapestries in a 100 percent hand-made way, I try to take care of the whole process directly from the sheep to the final artwork, so I produce the yarns by myself. Besides that I do crochet, knitting, weaving, latch-hooking majorly with wool.
What is a pivotal moment in your early career?
When I decided that I would prefer to work with textiles in a more artistic way rather than for fashion purposes.
What is it about your childhood that influenced what you do now?
Since I was a child I’ve been in contact with traditional arts, mainly with crochet, Arraiolos and tricot. Through both grandmothers and my mother I learnt this traditional techniques which still influences the way I work.
Which professional achievements are you most proud of?
Back in 2015 I participated in an exhibition at the Lisbon Museum of Fashion and Design with some pieces which was a milestone in my early career. Meanwhile presented my womenswear conceptual collection at the Lisbon Design Week. Recently I had the chance to show internationally my artworks at the Monocle Market in London which was an amazing opportunity for me.
Is there one thing you wish you’d known when you were starting out in wool/cotton?
I started working with wool to produce knitwear fashion collections and I went on discovering by myself the processes so I wish I had had a master to teach me everything. However, I believe that being autodidact led me into an unique self-discovery path which in the end was the most overwhelming one.
What is it about hand-made textiles that make them so popular right now?
I believe somehow it has to do with this recent re-approach trend to reconnect with craftwork not only in textiles but also in ceramics, wood and so on.
Which dream wool/cotton project would you like to work on?
I would love to make a huge wall covered in wool themed with sea nature with a lot of different textures, shapes and colours.
Which artists have had an impact on the work you do?
Judit Just, Alicia Scarpetta and Alexandra Kehayoglou.
What is your favourite woollen/cotton item in your wardrobe or home, and why?
It´s a hand-knitted sweater I made when I started to learn knitting. This piece I developed in the university and exhibited it in MUDE in Lisbon.
Can you describe your workspace for our readers?
I love to be surrounded by yarns to get inspired and I need to have a lot of natural light to be able to work properly. This allows me to truly see my artworks and understand the way I want to develop them. One of the most essential things for me in a workspace is not to be messy and have everything closely reachable when it comes to tools and materials.
What is your favourite quote or motto?
“You can’t use up creativity. The more you use, the more you have”. - Maya Angelou
Best beginner’s task?
Search, practice and persist.
What is one KPC yarn hue that speaks to you, and why?
Definitely the Ballet Shoes. I simply love this type of shade.